Let's eat, Ledgerland: True North adapts to 'new normal'

WEYMOUTH —  On May 22, the modern American eatery True North Kitchen and Bar reopened its doors after being closed since March 15 due to the coronavirus pandemic.

Unlike some other restaurants, True North stayed closed, even for takeout, so that the owners could quarantine together and spend time with their 18-month-old granddaughter.

"It was so unknown what was going on. There was panic in people's eyes and I didn't want to put my people at risk," said owner Joe Campbell, who runs the restaurant with his wife Janet.

Their two children also work at the restaurant, one of whom is pregnant and the other, Ben, who is the chef.

During those two months, Campbell said he took the time to reflect on how the industry will inevitably change, and how True North can adapt to this "new normal."

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"I spent that time coming up with different ways to improve the business. Technology-wise with a new website that offered online ordering and payment. I must've watched dozens of different webinars on other things that could help the business such as best loan programs and PPE loans," he said.

Meanwhile, his son did a lot of recipe testing and was cooking "all day, every day" in their home kitchen. One week it was doughnuts, another it was bagels.

"People asked me how long I was in quarantine for. I was in quarantine for 10 pounds," said Campbell, joking. "That's how much I gained."

Upon reopening for takeout in May, Campbell says a lot has changed, not only in how they operate, but also for how he views future restaurant endeavors.

Right now, he is the only one in his family coming in to work. When he gets home, he quarantines in a separate part of the house and enjoys a glass of wine with his wife on the porch.

Typically takeout was 10 percent of their business, but now it is 50 percent, even with indoor and outdoor dining allowed. As a result, Campbell started looking into improving presentation in the portable containers, as well as more eco-friendly packaging.

For outdoor dining, they've created a space in the back parking lot under a tent with new furniture, rugs, lighting and plants.

"It's a little oasis on Route 3A, where cars go whizzing by but you don't even know they're there from the back of the building," he said.

The veteran restaurateur has also begun reconsidering future ventures. What once was going to be another restaurant might instead be a limited service eatery, in which people grab the food and go.

Campbell says counter service businesses have done well during the pandemic as they have social distancing built into their model.

"People are reluctant to expose themselves, especially now as we see other parts of the country blowing up," he said.

Since reopening, True North has stopped offering lunch service and brunch on weekends, doing roughly 60 percent of business they used to, said Campbell. He understands why people are still hesitant to dine out and appreciates those who are coming out in support — be it for takeout or dining out.

"When we reopened, it was like seeing a long lost friend walk through the door. They were excited about us, but also about their chicken parmesan or carrot cake," he said, laughing.

Campbell says True North might be best known for their Mongolian chicken tenders, served with coconut creme fraiche, grilled pineapple and a sweet and spicy sauce. 

"Even though we're a small neighborhood restaurant, everything is done with a lot of care, everything from scratch," he said. "I think that's what we're known for. The care that goes into every dish."

He is happy to be up and running again and ready to adapt for what comes next, something he's always had to do in his nearly five decades in the industry.

"I don’t think things will really go back to what used to be normal. People's habits have changed, society has changed. There are things we all have to adapt to to survive. It’s kind of always been that way, but even more so now."

If you go ...

What: True North Kitchen and Bar

Where: 159 Bridge St., Route 3A, Weymouth

When: 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., Tuesday-Saturday; 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday

Contact: 339-201-7841; truenorthkitchenandbar.com